the blue blog patterns: weasley sweater

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weasley sweater

Based on the sweaters Molly Weasley knits for her family every year in the Harry Potter series, this simple and intentionally homely sweater is knit in a tweedy yarn, with an initial on the front. This pattern is my own version of the now out of print Rowan pattern that was written in conjunction with Pride and Joy, who created the sweaters for the Harry Potter movies. The sweater is a simple, drop shoulder design. The front and back are knit in pieces and sewn together and the sleeves are knitted by picking up stitches at the armholes and knitting down to the cuffs (although the body could be knit in the round to the armholes, and the sleeves could also be knit in reverse if you prefer to sew them in). The initial can be worked into the front with intarsia or added later with duplicate stitch.

(For a version of this pattern in a larger gauge and lots of other Harry Potter patterns, get my book, Charmed Knits!)

Note: Some sets of numbers have been highlighted and underlined in order to help you more easily find the numbers for your size in the long list. * and ** are used only to help you find that section of the pattern again when the instructions refer you back to it.

The following pattern changes were made and noted in purple:
12/05 - clarified sleeve decrease instructions
5/06 - lengthened smaller sizes by one inch

Difficulty:
Advanced Beginner, requiring only basic sweater construction skills
(this would be a great first sweater project! If you're a beginner, you can knit the sweater front plain and add the initial afterwards with duplicate stitch.)

Finished Measurements:
20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) inch circumference
12 (13.5, 15, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5, 27.5, 28.5) inches long

Materials:
- Main Color [MC]: 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) balls Rowan Felted Tweed (50% merino, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 190 yds/50g) or similar gauge tweedy yarn
  Contrast Color [CC]: 1 ball Rowan Felted Tweed or similar gauge tweedy yarn
- circular or straight needles size US5/3.75mm or size required to get gauge
  16" circular needle size US5/3.75mm or size required to get gauge
- tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge:
24 stitches / 32 rows over 4 square inches
Hint: If you want to use a yarn with a larger gauge, you can try using this same pattern, but following the instructions for a smaller size! Knit a gauge swatch and multiply your gauge per inch by half the bust size you wish to make (e.g.: if your gauge is 4 st./in. and you're knitting a 36 inch size, mulitply 4 x 18). Find the number closest to that number in the instructions for the back. Circle that number and follow all of the instructions that refer to # of stitches as if you were knitting that size. BUT follow instructions that refer to length in inches or # of rows from the ACTUAL size you want to make. Got it?)

Stitches used:
K = knit  P= purl
stockinette stitch = knit all RS (right side) rows, purl all WS (wrong side) rows
2x2 ribbing = on RS: K first two stitches, then (P2, K2) across row; on WS: Purl first two stitches, then (K2, p2) across row
K2tog = knit next two stitches together
SSK = slip next two stitches knitwise, return them to left needle, and knit together through the back loops
P2tog = purl next two stitches together
SSP = slip next two stitches knitwise, return them to left needle, and purl together through the back loops

Instructions:

BACK: With [MC] cast on 60 (66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126, 132, 138) stitches. Work in stockinette stitch *until piece measures 12 (13.5, 15, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5, 27.5, 28.5) inches, ending with WS row. Make shoulders by binding off 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Place remaining 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50) stitches on holder or scrap yarn for the neck. If you wish to grade the shoulders you can divide the shoulder bind offs into two, three, or four groups. For example, for the smallest size - bind off 9 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows, 2 times; for the seventh size (32 inch circ.) - bind off 10 stitches at beginning of next two rows, 3 times; for the largest size (44 inch circ.) - bind off 10 stitches at beginning of next two rows, 4 times.

Mark beginning of armhole by measuring 5 (6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5) inches DOWN from each shoulder edge and tying a spare scrap of yarn around the edge stitches.

FRONT: Work as for BACK until piece measures 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16, 17) inches from bottom. If you are knitting the initial into the front, begin working initial chart using a separate strand of [MC] and [CC] for each color section. Be sure to center chart for your size in the middle of the sweater. If you will be adding the initial later with duplicate stitch, continue knitting in stockinette stitch with [MC] only. After completing chart, continue knitting with [MC] only until sweater measures 9.75 (11.25, 12.75, 14.25, 15.5, 17, 18.5, 20, 21.5, 22.75, 23.75, 24.75, 24.75, 25.75) inches, ending with WS row.

Make neck opening by knitting across first 24 (26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 44, 46, 49, 51, 54, 56) stitches, placing the center 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26) stitches onto holder or scrap yarn, and knitting the remaining 24 (26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 43, 46, 49, 51, 54, 56) stitches. Continue on right side of neck only, working all following neck decreases for this side one stitch in from the egde as follows:
on WS: Purl to last 3 stitches, P2tog, P1
on RS: K1, K2tog, K to end.
**Shape neck by decreasing one stitch at neck edge EVERY row, 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, then EVERY OTHER ROW, 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) times. Continue in stockinette stitch until front is as long as back to beginning of shoulder shaping (see *) and complete as for back.

Join new yarn at armhole edge of left side to begin working left side of neck. Work all following neck decreases for this side as follows:
on RS: Knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1
on WS: P1, SSP, P to end
Shape neck as for other side (see **).

Mark beginning of armhole by measuring 5 (6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5) inches DOWN from each shoulder edge and tying a spare scrap of yarn around the edge stitches. SLEEVES: Sew shoulders together. Pick up and knit 58 (66, 72, 78, 84, 88, 96, 100, 108, 112, 120, 124, 132, 136) stitches around left armhole from from marked stitch on front to marked stitch on back. Beginning with a purl row, work in stockinette stitch for 1 (1, 1, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) inches. Begin shaping sleeve, by working decreases on each side one stitch in from the edge, as follows:
on RS: K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1
on WS: P1, SSP, P to last 3 stitches, P2tog, P1)
Work decreases on next and then on every 6 (6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4)th row until 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 54, 58, 58, 62, 62, 66, 66, 70, 70) stitches remain. When decreases are complete, continue working in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 8.5 (9.5, 10.5, 11.5, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5) inches, then work 2x2 ribbing (beginning and ending each row with K2) for 1.5 (1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5) inches. Bind off in pattern. Repeat for right armhole.

NECK: Transfer remaining 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50) stitches from back holder onto circular needle and beginning at right shoulder, knit across to left side of neck. Pick up approximately 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20) stitches down left neck edge. (Just try to pick up evenly without leaving big gaps. If you get a number anywhere close to mine, then that's fine.) Move remaining 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26) stitches from front from holder to left hand needle and knit across. Pick up approximately 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20) stitches up right neck edge. You should have approximately 64 (68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116) stitches total for neck. Work in the round, knitting all rounds for 1.5 (1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5) inches and bind off loosely.

Sew side seams of body and sleeves and weave in ends. Accio sweater!

Charts:
Click here for "H" charts.

You can also make your own chart with your computer. Print out knitter's graph paper (like that found at Sweaterscapes) and put back it in your printer's paper bin. Using a word processor or an image editing program, type the letter you want in a font you like and print it onto the knitter's graph paper. Voila - chart!

If you have good image editing software, you can also save and open the graph paper image in the image editing program, then type the letter into the graph paper image. Adjust the size of the letter such that it lines up with the squares as much as possible.

For both methods, you'll want to try several different font sizes to get your letter to be a good size for your sweater. Also, be ready to go over the chart a bit by hand to neaten things up.